Curtumes Miguel Branco

This proposal has been prepared with the help of an Exploratory Award which included a Research Feasibility Study. The project consists in the identification of an innovative cycle for manufacturing non allergic footwear and various clothing accessories. The industrial process aimed at obtaining leather components for shoe manufacturing and other various clothing accessories (watch straps, bracelets, clothes etc.) uses chromium and other allergizing elements in various phases. Chromium is the main component in chemical tanning processes. Furthermore, the various finishing phases of tanned skin, foresee the use of other elements which, as chromium, may provoke ACD "allergic contact dermatitis": complex metal dyes and pigments, butylphenolic resins (in glues), lanolin (for greasing), various composts such as free formalin, halogenated phenolic composts and corresponding composts (antimould). The number of human beings, also young in age, who suffer from allergic dermatitis caused by contact, is quite elevated. Epidemiological inquiries have pointed out the possibility of completely eliminating the problem by using skins without chromium and other elements that provoke allergies. Currently, seriously ill patients are forced to face the problem on their own: they must order and purchase the skin (tanned and manufactured in a non allergic way) at a tannery and then have their shoes made by hand in shoe laboratories. The manufacturing cycle is neither frequent nor industrialized (both tanning and final manufacturing phase) and therefore results are extremely poor in terms of exterior aspect and in terms of quality and duration. Furthermore, costs are extremely high. It is not particularly complicated to tan leather without using chromium composts: vegetable tanning, for example, which is currently used for manufacturing leatherware. Unfortunately, by using this method, certain characteristics of the finished product, such as softness, impermeability, duration and resistance to bending, cannot be compared to traditional footwear and accessories. It is also theoretically possible to carry out all finishing phases by using natural alternative products to allergizing products. The present project aims at evaluating in an analytic way all products and procedures to be adopted in order to individuate a cycle for producing shoes and accessories which is totally non allergic, and following characterization a quality mark (NAF). For this purpose the following will be examined: (A) choice of type of skin; (B) vegetable tanning treatments; (C) finishing procedures (greasing, water proof agents, binders, dyes etc; (D) mechanical treatments complementary to innovative tanning; (E) manufacturing techniques. The technical feasibility of the new manufacturing methods that will be individuated will be accompanied by marketing inquiries and relative economic evaluations. The proposing firm will carry out an experimental phase, which will follow the theoretical inquiry.